In 1941, Patek Philippe debuted a watch that would usher in its command of the complicated wristwatch market, the Reference 1518. While the maison had long specialized in complicated pocket watch construction, this groundbreaking reference constituted the world’s first serially-produced perpetual calendar wristwatch with chronograph. Produced in less than 300 examples, this 35mm miniature mechanical computer was far ahead of its time — indeed, it would be many decades before another watch company would offer a similar product.
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Ref.1518 - (Image by Christie's)
The perpetual calendar, which requires no adjustment throughout the year, is a revelatory complication — combine it with a common chronograph, and you have the recipe for a supremely useful timepiece. But such a watch, by virtue of its complicated nature, is naturally expensive to build, and even more expensive to buy. Even without the chronograph complication, one will set you back a pretty penny, often to the tune of six figures.
So just as Patek sought to widen its catalog with the introduction of the Calatrava in 1932 — a model that offered the refinement of a Patek Philippe wristwatch to those who couldn’t necessarily afford a more complicated piece — the Annual Calendar, released in 1996, provided a “more accessible” complication and alternative to the sophisticated (and pricey) perpetual calendar. The concept is (relatively) simple: Instead of a calendar that requires no adjustment throughout the year, the Annual Calendar only requires a single adjustment at the end of February, to account for a 28- or 29-day month. Other than this one-time change, the watch has no need for interaction with its wearer: Provided it’s kept wound, it will tell the time, day, date, month (and sometimes, the moon phase) throughout an entire 365-day period.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref.5035 with 24-Hour Indicator - (Image by Sotheby's)
Thus, Patek was able to offer a complicated watch to those who weren’t yet prepared to fork over big bucks for a quantième perpétuel, or a perpetual calendar chronograph. The maison’s first annual calendar movement, the Calibre 315 QA, was introduced to the world within the yellow-gold Reference 5035, evolving within several Advanced Research models between the years 2005 to 2008. It was during this period that Patek began innovating with silicon-based escape wheels, Spiromax balance springs, and Pulsomax® silicon-based escapements, culminating in the current collection that features moon phase and 24-hour indicators. (Ironically, the annual calendar collection also features models that combine this pared-back version of the perpetual calendar with a flyback chronograph, making for a new feature set bordering on the sophistication of the Ref. 1518 and its successors.)
Here at Analog:Shift, we carry a wide variety of Patek Philippe Annual Calendar watches, from the simple and elegant Reference 5396 to the stunning Ref. 5205 to the oddball 5135 within the Gondolo collection. Whatever shape, metal, and dial color you fancy, there’s a healthy chance we stock it or can source it. Once the province of those who were reluctant to spend Perpetual Calendar money, the Annual Calendar has since become a destination in its own right, and a complication that attracts the most die-hard collectors. Check one out for yourself and you’re sure to understand why!
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G-014 ($39,850)
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref.5396G-014 - IN THE SHOP
Dating from the 2010s, this gorgeous, white gold Annual Calendar features a picture-perfect 38.5mm case combined with a stunning, dark grey sunburst dial. Two recesses beneath 12 o’clock give you the day and month, while a date window is recessed into a moonphase display above 6 o’clock that does double-duty as a 24-hour indicator. The pièce de résistance, however, is the set of applied white gold ‘Breguet’ numerals, which add a touch of old-world elegance not found on most contemporary offerings from the maison.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonphase ($33,850)
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonphase - IN THE SHOP
Speaking of handsome designs, check out this Reference 5146J from the 2010s. Powered by the automatic Calibre 315 S IRM QA LU, it pairs a yellow gold case with an anthracite grey dial featuring applied yellow gold ‘Arabic’ indices, a power reserve indicator beneath 12 o’clock, date and month subsidiary registers, and a moon phase display as well as a date window above 6 o’clock. If this weren’t enough, the beautifully finished movement is visible via a sapphire display caseback, and the watch comes with its Certificate of Origin.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonphase ($65,850)
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moonphase - IN THE SHOP
The Reference 5205 is far and away one of the most elegant Annual Calendar references ever devised by Patek Philippe. This white-gold “G” version, dating to the 2020s, features a sunburst blue ‘sector’ dial with day, date, and month apertures arranged in an arc between 10 and 2 o’clock, plus an oversized moon phase display with a 24-hour indicator above 6 o’clock. Its applied white gold indices match the watch’s 40mm white gold case, while its polished, concave bezel gives a feeling of heft not often seen in such dressy pieces.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph ($52,850)
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
Keeping with the theme of Patek’s combination of calendars and chronographs, check this puppy out — the Reference 5960-1A. Cased in stainless steel and paired — unusually for a watch such as this — with a matching multi-link bracelet, its stark white dial offers day, date, and month apertures, a power reserve indicator, a luminous ‘sword’ handset, and a fascinating, combination 30-minute/12-hour/running seconds ‘mono-counter’ at 6 o’clock. What could otherwise have been a particularly busy dial is thus rendered stunningly legible. Brilliant!
Patek Philippe Gondolo Annual Calendar ($46,850)
Patek Philippe Gondolo Annual Calendar - IN THE SHOP
Perhaps you prefer watches of the quadrilateral varietal — no problem. Check out this white-gold Gondolo Ref. 5135G from the 2000s. Measuring 38mm, its tonneau shape contains a matte-grey dial with a sunburst inner section. And while the day, date, and month apertures typical of many Patek Annual Calendar models are present, the smaller moon phase and 24-hour display of this particular reference holds a secret: Look closely, and you’ll see that it’s signed “Tiffany & Co,” the retailer at which it was sold.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time ($89,850)
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time - IN THE SHOP
In 2022, Patek Philippe introduced the Reference 5326G, a 41mm watch that combines its unique Annual Calendar complication with the Travel Time complication for which the modern brand has become well known. Housed in a white gold case, its dark grey gradient dial with military-like Arabic indices and chemin de fer minute track features day, month, and date apertures and a plus a moon phase above 6 o’clock — plus dual Local and Home day/night indicators and a local jumping hour hand. For businessmen or frequent travelers in need of an elegant calendar watch, look no further than this creative piece.
