Patek Philippe Calatrava

First presented in 1932 as the Reference 96, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is the benchmark for classic men’s dress watches. This groundbreaking collection — which didn’t take on the name “Calatrava” until the 1980s — set the stage for nearly every piece Patek has released since, and became the blueprint for other brands’ approaches to elegant men’s timepieces. Heavily influenced by the Bauhaus design philosophy, the Calatrava was then considered extremely modern with its minimalist, ‘less is more’ approach to watch design. 

In the years since 1932, Patek has released dozens of Calatrava references, each with its own idiosyncrasies. Almost all share the underlying DNA of the 96, prioritizing subtle elegance above all else. 

This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5296G-001. Dating to the 2010s, it’s housed in a 38mm 18K white gold case with a signed crown, a polished bezel, and a sapphire crystal. Its dial is particularly striking: executed in a silver ‘sector’ motif, it features an outer 1/5th-seconds track, an inner minute track, a blued steel feuille handset, and a framed date window at 3 o’clock. Powered by the Patek Philippe Calibre 324 automatic movement visible via a sapphire caseback, it comes paired to a signed, black alligator leather strap with an 18K white gold pin buckle. 

Inspired by Patek Philippe watches from the 1930s and 1940s, the Reference 5296G-001 is one of the more unabashedly vintage-inspired references from the modern era. If you’re looking for a contemporary take on a classic design, you couldn’t possibly do better than this handsome Calatrava! 

Patek Philippe has long been known for its complicated watchmaking, but following the stock market crash of 1929, fewer clients had the means to purchase these high-end timepieces. After securing a controlling interest in the firm, Jean and Charles Henri Stern decided to create a simple watch that would come in at a lower price point and appeal to the firm’s clientele.

Using the principles espoused by the Bauhaus school and its minimalist, function-first philosophy, the maison conceived the Calatrava, taking its name from the Spanish military order established in the 12th century which had become the symbol of Patek Philippe. Since its debut in 1932, the Calatrava has become a byword for a simple, time-only dress watch — even from brands other than Patek itself.

This particular Calatrava, a Reference 5196P, is housed in a 37mm platinum case with a sapphire crystal, a signed crown, and a polished bezel. It features a crisp, silver dial with a brushed outer ring and a matte center, applied Breguet numerals, a sub-seconds register at 6:00, and a white gold ‘feuille’' handset. At just 8mm tall, its elegance is matched only by its comfort on-wrist.

Within a polished snap-on caseback is the manually-wound Calibre 215 movement, while a signed, black alligator leather strap with a signed platinum pin buckle completes a picture of dressy refinement.

Sure, you could get yourself a modern dress watch that tells the time just fine — and that probably ends up in a drawer after a while. But a real Calatrava from the world’s greatest watchmaker is forever.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.