Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Moonphase Chronograph

Patek Philippe has sat high atop the horological mountain for going on two centuries, having earned near-universal acclaim for their proficiencies in designing, engineering, and manufacturing some of the most exquisite timepieces the world has ever seen.

But while Patek is world-renowned for its superb in-house movements, it should be noted that up until fairly recently, even its complicated chronographs used source Swiss movements from the likes of Lemania, and before that, Valjoux. Naturally, these were superbly finished versions of base ebauchés, but this is old-school watchmaking in a nutshell — a maison such as Patek would source the parts from the very best manufacturers as a starting point, and improve, modify and finish from there. In the 1980s and 1990s, the best chronograph bases in the industry came from Lemania.

Widely considered amongst collectors as one of the maison’s last great designs, the Reference 3970 such the one we have here is a 36mm perpetual calendar chronograph produced between 1986 and 2004, preceded by the Ref. 2499 and succeeded by the Ref. 5970. It’s powered by the Calibre CH 27-70 Q manually-wound movement — Patek’s modified version of the Lemania Calibre 2310. Hand-finished and beautiful, it formed the basis for not only the 3970 - but also the Calibre .321 used in the earliest Omega Speedmatsers. 

What is this notable movement powering? Namely, a mechanism with an incredible amount of information, conveyed in an elegant form that only a maison such as Patek Philippe could design. On its beautiful silvered dial you'll find applied yellow gold pointed indices, dual day and month displays beneath the 12 o’clock index, a combined 30-minute totalizer and leap year indicator at 3 o’clock; a combined date wheel and moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock; and a combined running seconds and 12-hour totalizer at 9 o’clock — oh, it also tells the time!

This piece, a Reference 3970J/002, features a tidy 18k yellow gold case equipped with round chronograph pushers, a signed crown, a solid case back and comes without the model's characteristic sculpted lugs. A rarely-seen variant, this example exchanges a leather strap for an integrated rice-bead style bracelet with a signed hook and lock clasp, all finished in 18k yellow golf.

Beautifully sized with a gorgeous dial and featuring one of the most notable chronograph movements in history, we’ll be damned if this third-series 3970 isn’t one of the most exquisite complicated watches from Patek we’ve ever had the pleasure to offer.

*Due to the design of this bracelet, sizing alterations may require custom work. Lead time after measurements are established is 4-6 weeks.*

Founded in 1839, Patek Philippe is one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world with an uninterrupted watchmaking history. Few international luxury brands carry the gravitas of their name, and for good reason. The firm's commitment to excellence in horological manufacture is unflinching, and their track record of innovation in design without peer. They continue to lead the industry, and even their fiercest competitors have nothing but the utmost respect for the company.

From the simple elegance of their Calatrava line to the stunning study in miniaturization that is reference 1518 perpetual calendar to the modern reference 5750P chiming watch, Patek’s catalog is chock full of some of the most elegant and complicated timepieces ever made. Family-owned and completely independent, the firm has the freedom to do what it wants — such as discontinue one of the world’s most beloved steel luxury sport watches, the reference 5711 — when it wants.

Owning a Patek Philippe is for many the ultimate goal of timepiece collecting, and for a certain type, the only timepieces they collect. Whichever way you look at it, there is no questioning the elegance of design, superlative manufacture of their cases and movements, or the sheer elegance and emotion that comes from owning one.

Of course for a brand that is steeped in heritage, we are told “You never actually own a Patek Philippe…”

Well, you know the rest.

Our Pledge

Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.