Bulova 'Royal Oak'

There's just something about this shape, isn't there?

Introduced to the world in 1972 on the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 5402 ‘Jumbo’ penned by Gerald Genta, this strong geometric case with octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet design has gone on to find itself applied to innumerable AP models — and more than a few homages.

This particular timepiece, a Bulova Reference 4423902, is the American brand's tribute not only to the Royal Oak, but its designer, who worked for Bulova extensively in the 1960s. Admittedly, if this watch were produced today the internet would rise up with cries of ‘Ripoff!’ — if not worse — and it’s very likely some lawyering would be involved. But in the 1970s it was a different world, and everyone was keen to get in on the new ‘Luxury Sports Watch’ category that Audemars Piguet had created — so this cool watch gets a pass!

It doesn't hurt that it's a very well built timepiece, either. Sized at 35mm it’s nearly identical in proportions to models such as the Reference 14790 by AP, and is fitted with a stunning white micro-tapisserie dial which has patainted to a lovely cream-tone — with an even finer finishing than its inspiration from Le Brassus. Powered by an automatic-winding calibre and fitted with an integrated bracelet with deployant clasp bearing the Bulova 'Tuning Fork' logo, this 1980s timepiece shows just how good an homage can be executed — even if most of them aren't.

Best yet is the price point: This is an exciting design and a great story to be able to strap on for under $5K, particularly when considering the price of entry for the ‘genuine’ article from Audemars Piguet!

The story of Bulova is deeply entwined with American manufacturing. Its founder, a Czech immigrant named Joseph Bulova, was inspired by the advances that Ford made in his factory in Highland Park, Michigan. In 1912, Bulova built a factory in Biel, Switzerland, using Ford’s principles of mass production.
The brand was among the first to offer a wide range of wristwatches for men, with a distinctive visual style that — thanks to its innovative adoption of advertising and a relocation to Astoria, Queens — became fixed in the American imagination. Bulova took over offices in a skyscraper on 5th Avenue in Manhattan and installed an observatory on the roof in order to measure universal time. In the workshop down below, watchmakers timed the watches they were working on against readings taken in the observatory.
The watches that Bulova produced were varied, from handsome three-handers to divers and even chronographs. Bulova produced its first chronographs in the 1940s — single-button affairs with screw-on bezels. Throughout the 1950s, 60s, and 70's, Bulova honed its mastery of such watches.

However, perhaps the brand’s single most important innovation was 1960’s Accutron, a timepiece that used an electric tuning fork in place of a traditional balance wheel. Following on the heels of the Hamilton Electric of 1957, the Accutron featured a guaranteed accuracy of two seconds per day — much better accuracy than that of a contemporary mechanical watch. (The Accutron line was later spun off and relaunched as its own brand in 2020.)

In 1971 a Bulova chronograph accompanied the crew of Apollo 15 into space. When the crystal on astronaut David Scott’s Speedmaster popped off, he strapped on his Bulova, making it the only privately worn watch to ever have been worn on the Moon. (It was subsequently auctioned off for more than $1.625M.)

Currently owned by Citizen Group and headquartered in New York City, Bulova continues to make watches inspired by its long American heritage.

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Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.