Cartier Tank Normale

Cartier is responsible for some of the most recognizable and successful wristwatches in the history of modern horology. The definitive expert on watch design, the French maison has always been a leader in challenging conventional approaches to watchmaking while pioneering new styling as a fixture in the broader fashion world. 

Few watches have played a larger role in solidifying this brand identity than the Tank. Undoubtedly the most iconic watch in Cartier’s history and conceived based on a simple idea, it’s evolved to take myriad forms over the years, with over a dozen sub-designs that each has its own identity and presence. After the release of the Tank, the watch space was changed forever. Introduced in 1917 based on the conception of Louis Cartier, the great grandson of Cartier’s founder, the Tank took inspiration from a French military tank from the First World War— the Renault FT-17. The look of the Tank was striking and revolutionary— rectangular and unconventional for the period, the Tank was also one of the earliest wrist watches to be popularly accepted by the broader fashion space. 

After 1917, Cartier saw a surge in interest in its unique watches, and more and more Cartier Tank models were born, building on the underlying design philosophy that made the Tank an initial success in the 1910s. The Tank Cintrée was introduced in 1921, the Louis and Chinoise in 1922, the Basculante in 1933, the Asymetrique in 1936, and so on. 

While each of these pieces added its own story to the Tank chronology, the model that started it all was the Normale. 

Although the watch itself was rectangular, the dial was square, with case sides that double as the bezel and are referred to as ‘brancards’. These early Tank models featured flat-topped brancards and slabbed sides, maintaining the Renault-influenced “tank” presence. Many of the other characteristic design elements of the Tank were introduced on the Normale, including the 'Roman' numeral dial, blued steel hands, blue cabochon crown, and ‘railroad’ minute track. The strap integrates perfectly into the elongated brancards, meshing with the case seamlessly. 

If you want the piece that started it all, this Normale is the one!

Despite being a purveyor of haute joaillerie, Cartier has had a long tradition of making watches.
It started in 1907, when founder Louis Cartier made what was one of the first wristwatches for his friend Alberto Santos-Dumont. In the following years, the brand made a name for itself with its most famous wristwatch, the Tank, in all its multitudinous forms.
Cartier introduced the Tank in 1917 — which was supposedly inspired by the Renault FT-17 tanks seen on the battlefields of World War I — with a run of six pieces. (According to legend, these were given to American General John J. Pershing and his staff.) Cartier took the look of the Renault tank's treads and applied it to the watch’s lugs, which were integrated via brancards into the case itself. That first run of six pieces increased to thirty-three by 1920, and by the end of the 20th Century, that number stood well in the hundreds of thousands. Indeed, in sheer volume alone, the Tank — in all its various models — is Cartier's largest line of watches.
The Tank Louis was introduced in 1922, followed close on the heels of the Asian-influenced Tank Chinoise. The Chinoise, released amidst a mania for jewelry inspired by the Orient, has a square rather than rectangular case and lugs that resemble the portico of a Chinese pagoda.
From its debut, the Tank would see many variations, each in keeping with Louis Cartier’s taste for clean lines and perfect symmetry. Each variant — from the original Tank to the Tank Louis to the Cintrée with its flirtatious, curvaceous lines — has its passionate devotees. Rudolph Valentino, that sensual star of the silver screen, insisted on wearing his Tank onscreen in The Son of the Sheik, and Clark Gable, Andy Warhol, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis were among those who sported a one throughout the years.
Other model lines, including the Santos (based upon the original model crafted for Alberto Santos-Dumont) and the Pasha, have developed devoted followers. Indeed, the maison is unique as one of the few jewelry brands to elicit as much passion from collectors as dedicated watch companies.

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.