Daniel Roth Master Perpetual Calendar

Few names command as much reverence among collectors of independent watchmaking as Daniel Roth. Long before the modern renaissance of artisanal horology, Roth left the security of Switzerland's great manufactures to establish his own atelier in 1988, becoming one of the first contemporary watchmakers to build a brand around his own name. Drawing upon his experience at Jaeger-LeCoultre, Audemars Piguet, and, most famously, Breguet, he created watches that blended classical aesthetics with uncompromising mechanical ambition.

Among his most celebrated creations is the Daniel Roth Perpetual Calendar. Introduced in the early 1990s, it represents a remarkable collaboration between two of the era's greatest watchmaking minds: Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour. Seeking to develop the world's first instantaneous perpetual calendar, the pair would go on to design its foundation before extensively reengineering it to fit Roth's signature double-ellipse case. While the immense energy demands ultimately prevented the fully instantaneous display they envisioned, the resulting watch remains one of the most fascinating perpetual calendars of its generation and an important chapter in the history of independent watchmaking.

This particular example, a Reference 118.X.040, is an especially desirable early execution in 18k yellow gold. Measuring 35mm by 38mm, the distinctive double-ellipse case remains unlike anything else in watchmaking, striking a perfect balance between classical elegance and modern originality. Its sophisticated grey dial is framed by a hand-finished guilloché chapter ring with Roman numerals, while the perpetual calendar displays are thoughtfully arranged to preserve both symmetry and legibility. The combination of warm yellow gold and cool grey gives the watch a quietly distinguished presence that feels every bit as compelling today as it did three decades ago.

Visible through the caseback is the automatic Calibre DR114, meticulously modified for Daniel Roth and finished in keeping with the standards that defined the brand's early production. Completing the watch is a leather strap fitted with its original 18k yellow gold Daniel Roth buckle.

Produced in exceptionally small numbers during the manufacture's formative years, ththi piece occupies a special place in the history of modern independent watchmaking. It is not merely an exceptional perpetual calendar, but the product of a rare collaboration between Daniel Roth and Philippe Dufour, two figures whose influence continues to shape haute horlogerie today. For collectors, opportunities to acquire one of these early masterpieces are few and far between.

Daniel Roth is one of the defining figures of modern independent watchmaking. A master watchmaker trained in the Vallée de Joux, Roth built his reputation restoring and developing complicated movements at Audemars Piguet before joining Breguet in the 1970s. There, he played a pivotal role in reviving the historic house and reintroducing many of the classical design codes collectors now associate with Breguet.

In 1989, Roth launched his own manufacture, becoming one of the earliest pioneers of the modern independent watch movement. His watches were instantly recognizable thanks to the signature double-ellipse case, hand-finished guilloché dials, and an uncompromising devotion to traditional Swiss watchmaking. Producing tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and other complications in small numbers, Roth established a design language that balanced classical craftsmanship with unmistakable individuality.

Today, the brand is experiencing a modern resurgence. Under LVMH ownership, Daniel Roth has been relaunched with a renewed focus on the founder’s original philosophy — highly refined finishing, distinctive case design, and small-scale production that honor the spirit of Roth’s pioneering independent work.

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Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a two-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.