Glycine Airman

Allow us to drop some horological lore on you:

For many years, Glycine was a name well under the radar, a sterling company on which few enthusiasts and collectors set their sites. But in recent years, the brand has returned to its roots, reproducing the classic and groundbreaking design that they were once known for almost exclusively.

The Airman was developed in the mid-1950s and is reported to be the first wristwatch to incorporate a 24-hour dial and second time zone capabilities into the same timepiece. The design, coming straight from the parameters of surveyed pilots, was unlike any watch that had been previously produced. With its relatively small steel case with gently sloping lugs, the Airman was conceived first and foremost to be a low-profile timepiece, keeping well out of the way of straps, instruments and gear. The matte 24-hour dial, complete with luminous hour markers, was highly legible in any light condition, and paired with the broad arrow luminous hands, made for a face that could be read at a glance.

But most remarkable was Glycine’s inclusion of a steel, rotating 24-hour bezel with a patented crown that, when loosened, allowed the bezel to be adjusted to a second time zone and subsequently locked, eliminating the chance that it would move while on the wrist.

This innovation, in concert with its high legibility and 24-hour dial, made the Airman an instant favorite among military pilots. Stories abound about jet and helicopter pilots in the Korean and Vietnam wars gravitating to the Airman as their wristwatch of choice over the more rudimentary military-issued Benrus and Hamilton watches.

The particular Airman we have here is a Reference DC-4 — a modern remake of the notable original. Housed in a more contemporary 42mm stainless steel case with holey lugs, a sapphire crystal, a signed crown, and a cross-hatched bezel-locking crown to secure the bi-directional 24hr stainless steel bezel. It features a luminous matte black dial with Arabic indices, a matching Dauphine handset, a closed ‘railroad’ minute/second track, and a ‘roulette’ date window at 3:00. Powered by the automatic-winding, Swiss-made Glycine GL 293 movement, it comes paired to a grey NATO-style strap with stainless steel hardware.

While the original Airman will always stand as a benchmark for the company’s innovative spirit and no-nonsense design language, this modern incarnation from the 2010s is no less striking and utilitarian. 

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Glycine was established in 1914 by Eugene Meylan, an “uncompromising watch engineer.” With a keen understanding of both the technical and marketing aspects of the watch industry, Meylan specialized in miniaturized movements for ladies’ watches.
While this might be deemed an odd focus today, back in 1914 Meylan could not have made a better one. Wristwatches for men were still regarded as something of a novelty — although World War I would soon change that — while sales in ladies’ watches were booming. Moreover, rather than being viewed as mere accessories, ladies’ watches were a perfect way for a watchmaker to display his skill, due to the expertise required to make them. Soon Glycine’s reputation was based on the beauty and technical precision of these miniature machines. Although Glycine started small, the brand was poised to do great things.
The 1950s saw steady advancements, including the creation of perhaps Glycine’s most famous watch, pre-Airman: the Vacuum. The name came from the vacuum pump in which each Vacuum watch was placed, to be sealed. Elegant and beautifully crafted, inside and out, they were the flagship of Glycine’s collection.
Then came the Airman, which changed the face of watchmaking forever — quite literally, as it happens, due to its groundbreaking 24-hour dial. The success of the Airman ushered in a new era for Glycine, in which the brand released sporty watches to meet the changing needs of the post-war “jet set.” Today, the brand continues to manufacture both the famed Airman and five other collections under the direction and ownership of the Invicta company.

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Analog:Shift stands behind the authenticity of our products in perpetuity.

Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.