Did you know that there’s an entire subset of mechanical watches that include an alarm complication, much like that of an old alarm clock? That’s right: You wind the watch up, set the time, set the desired alarm time, and then it buzzes at the prescribed hour. Pretty neat! (At least, it’s significantly more neat than when your iPhone goes off at 0630.) In fact, we’d argue that in a world in which your every waking move is controlled by some digital app or notification, a mechanical alarm takes on an entirely new level of charm.
This Eterna from 1914 was the first alarm-equipped wristwatch produced in series. - (Image by Time and Watches)
While pocket watches with alarm complications were developed as early as the 17th century, it wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century that watchmakers were tinkering with wristwatch alarms. In 1914, Eterna developed the first dedicated wristwatch alarm calibre, but the drawbacks were numerous: Because the movement used a single barrel for both timekeeping as well as the alarm, the alarm could only ring for a few seconds. It was also liable to affect the watch’s accuracy when it sounded, and it could only be set on a 12-hour scale.
President Dwight Eisenhower wearing his Vulcain Cricket - (Image by Watchonista)
Vulcain solved these problems in the 1940s, beginning development on the Cricket in 1942 and releasing the first production model in 1947. Its hand-wound Calibre 120 featured dual barrels — one for timekeeping and one for the alarm — which allowed the alarm to sound for 25 seconds. Both barrels could easily be wound via the crown, and holes in the case allowed sound to escape much like on a stringed instrument; meanwhile, the Exactomatic system maintained accuracy in the movement’s balance across all positions. After a Cricket was rather famously gifted to President Truman in 1952, it began a long association with U.S. presidents, including Eisenhowever and Johnson.
A Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox with an inner rotating dial that displays the alarm time - IN THE SHOP
Of course, the Cricket is far from the only mechanical alarm design. In 1951, Jaeger-LeCoultre released its Memovox, which displayed the alarm time with an inner rotating dial rather than a fourth hand. In 1956, the arrival of the Calibre 815 afforded this model automatic winding, and the mechanical alarm complication was welcomed into the future. Numerous companies used the A. Schild Calibre 5008 rebranded under their own nomenclature; this automatic alarm ébauche, produced between 1973 and 1977, ensured that the mechanical alarm complication would continue to see use through the Quartz Crisis, and before the current infatuation with in-house movement production took hold.
While mechanical alarm watches are relatively few and far between today, several companies still manufacture them — much to the delight of mechanical watch lovers everywhere. The vintage market, for its part, offers numerous entry points to such a complication, from the famed Cricket to the rather ubiquitous Memovox in all its myriad iterations. (Those in search of something decidedly refined, meanwhile, can look to highly complicated watches from the likes of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne.) Enjoy a perusal of our mechanical alarm watches below, and reach out to us if there’s a particular model or reference you’re after!
Certina Alarm Automatic ($1,350)
Certina Alarm Automatic - IN THE SHOP
Not all mechanical alarm watches are of the dressier ilk. To wit: Check out this Ref. 681-3750-41 from Certina. Dating to the 1970s and housed in a 39.5mm stainless steel cushion case, its handsome, light blue dial with tritium-lumed hands and a useful date window features an inner alarm dial in the mode of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris. Powered by the automatic Certina Calibre 861 automatic movement, it comes paired to a matching Bridger Blue Alpine leather strap with steel pin buckle from Analog:Shift.
Benrus Wrist Alarm 'Bullitt' ($3,550)
Benrus Wrist Alarm 'Bullitt' - IN THE SHOP
The Reference 3021 from Benrus has to be the most no-nonsense mechanical alarm watch ever conceived of by man. Just look at this thing: 34mm case with dual crowns; black dial with inner 24-hour scale and ‘Arabic’ indices in the mode of Benrus’s own mil-spec watches; stainless steel construction. If you plan on racing your 1968 Ford Mustang GT through San Francisco like Frank Bulitt — but you also need a mechanical reminder to, say, water the plants — then this is the alarm watch for you!
Paul Portinoux Alarm Watch ($950)
Paul Portinoux Alarm Watch - IN THE SHOP
Looking for a subtle, under-the-radar wrist alarm in an unpretentious package? Then this Paul Portinoux is pour vous. Measuring 34mm and featuring twin crowns, a silvered dial, lumed ‘baton’ hands, and a cool, red-tipped ‘squiggle’ alarm hand, it’s powered by — big surprise — the A. Schild Calibre 1475 manually-wound movement. A screw-down caseback, meanwhile, provides ample protection from the elements.
Nivada Grenchen Travelmaster Alarm ($1,350)
Nivada Grenchen Travelmaster Alarm - IN THE SHOP
This 36mm steel Nivada Grenchen Travelmaster is a left-of-center take on an already niche complication: Take a close look at the bidirectional bezel, and you’ll realize its insert is meant for aeronautical computations — much like that of the Breitling Navitimer. Regardless of whether or not you need to compute flight time or fuel consumption, however, this manually-wound alarm watch is perfect for setting subtle, mechanical reminders of important to-dos. (It doesn’t hurt that it’s a seriously good-looking piece, either!)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox ($3,950)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox - IN THE SHOP
With the exception of the Cricket, perhaps no alarm watch is better known amongst collectors for its charm and beauty than the Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox. This version, dating to the 1960s, pairs a generous 37mm steel case with a matte-black dial featuring an inner, rotating alarm disc; tritium lume plots; applied steel indices; and a set of lumed ‘dauphine’ hands. Rather than an A. Schild movement, this piece is powered by the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre K825 bumper movement. Beautiful and large, it has an incredible, mesmerizing sound.
Tudor Heritage Advisor ($3,950)
Tudor Heritage Advisor - IN THE SHOP
A modern execution of Tudor’s Advisor alarm watch, the Ref. 79620 is housed in an oversized 42mm steel case. (In addition to dual crowns controlling the alarm-setting and time-setting functions, it also features a pusher at 8 o’clock that acts as an on-off button for the alarm. Cool!) Its luminous black dial, meanwhile, features an alarm power reserve indicator, an on/off indicator, a date sundial at 6 o’clock, and a set of lumed ‘dauphine’ hands. Paired to a black alligator leather strap, it’s a thoroughly modern take on an old-world complication.
BONUS: Angelus Art Deco Desk Clock For Tiffany & Co. ($2,150)
Angelus Art Deco Desk Clock for Tiffany & Co. - IN THE SHOP
We know, we know — this roundup is a gathering of alarm-equipped wristwatches. But feast your eyes for a moment upon this desktop-based beauty and try to resist its charms: Produced by Angelus for Tiffany & Co. in the 1950s, it features an 8-day mechanical movement with alarm complication and a gorgeous, almost military-like dial with a chemin de fer minute track and large, radium-lumed ‘Arabic’ indices. Blued steel ‘sword’ hands and a smaller alarm hand complete the picture of a decidedly elevated take on an otherwise pedestrian object.
