At the crossroads of watches and jewelry exists a fascinating horological niche that’s finally reentering the zeitgeist after 50 years — namely, watches with woven bracelets.
With the recent explosion of interest in vintage Piaget watches — particularly the brand’s precious-metal offerings from the 1960s and 1970s — there’s been a renewed focus on timepieces with woven bracelets more broadly. Beyond Piaget, marques such as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex, and others once offered watches with exquisitely finished, handmade, woven precious-metal bracelets of both the integrated and conventional variety. Produced for the brands by partners who specialized in such designs, these bracelets are now highly covetable pieces seen on the wrists of celebrities at awards ceremonies; within the collections of important collectors; and all over social media.
Part of the explanation behind the proliferation for such designs during the mid-20th century concerns the broader watchmaking model of that time period: With the intense focus on vertical integration and in-house construction that exists today — Rolex forges its own gold, for crying out loud! — it can be easy to forget that brands once sourced many of their most important components from third parties: Dials from Stern Frères, for instance, or movements from Valjoux. Even a truly exceptional watch might have been produced using parts from numerous suppliers, and bracelets were no exception — especially ones whose construction required a high degree of savoir faire in order to realize.
The Gérald Genta-designed reference 5403 "Cobra" for Audemars Piguet - (Image by Sotheby's)
During the 1960s and 1970s, some of the most important players in woven bracelet space were Gay Fréres, Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, and Roland-Gilbert Gaschen. The former is no doubt familiar to many for its beautiful beads-of-rice bracelets produced for the likes of Patek Philippe and its Oyster bracelets produced for Rolex, which absorbed the company in the 1990s. Jean-Pierre Ecoffey and Roland-Gilbert Gaschen are perhaps less well known, but certainly no less important: JPE made some of the most beautiful bracelets of the era for Patek and Audemars Piguet, while Roland-Gilbert Gaschen was responsible for designs affixed to watches from brands as varied at Cyma and Rolex. However, the firm’s most famous contribution to high-end watchmaking may be the integrated bracelet found on the Reference 5403 “Cobra,” the “other” early ‘70s Gérald Genta design made for AP.
In comparing one of these woven bracelets from the ‘60s or ‘70s to a stainless steel “mesh bracelet,” you’ll notice significant differences in texture and finishing: The three-dimensionality of designs from the likes of Gay Frères, Jean-Pierre Ecoffey, and Roland-Gilbert Gaschen is striking — despite taking on a variety of different patterns and weaves, close examination typically yields undulating peaks and valleys of precious metal that seems almost “alive” in the manner of a wave. Certain designs are flatter, of course, while others are more dynamic. All are beautiful vestiges of a grade of savoir faire typically absent from modern, mass-assembled watches.
Usher received his BET Lifetime Achievement award wearing a gold Piaget Polo Pave Diamond Dial sourced from Analog:Shift - (Image by Getty Images & GQ)
If you’re on the lookout for such a bracelet — and the watch attached to it — Analog:Shift is an excellent resource. We carry myriad such models from the likes of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Piaget, Movado, and more. And while many such models were intended for ladies’ wrists, the pendulum swing in favor of smaller case sizes means that men feel more comfortable than ever wearing something like a 24mm yellow gold Piaget with an integrated, woven bracelet. (If it’s good enough for Usher…)
Reach out to us to come view our selection of incredible vintage woven bracelet watches from some of the world’s best watchmakers and artisans — and check out some of our favorites below.
Piaget 'Woven' Dress Watch ($8,950)
Piaget 'Woven' Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
This incredible specimen dates to the 1970s, a time when quartz technology was new (and cool) enough to display it proudly on the dial! Constructed from white gold, this Reference 7131D2’s splendid case and bracelet are hand-finished in a beautiful woven pattern that takes on the look of strands of rope. If Bernini had been a watchmaker, this is the type of watch he would have designed.
Patek Philippe Ellipse Ladies Woven Cuff ($19,950)
Patek Philippe Ellipse Ladies Woven Cuff - IN THE SHOP
“Exquisite” feels like an inadequate descriptor for this gorgeous Patek Philippe Ellipse. Produced in 18K yellow gold, its textured bracelet takes on the aspect of fine chain mail — though we’re sure this isn’t the first thing that comes to mind for the lady lucky enough to wear such a piece! Powered by a hand-wound movement, its deep blue ‘Sigma’ dial telegraphs the presence of gold.
Movado White Gold 'Malachite' Dress Watch ($8,850)
Movado White Gold 'Malachite' Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
Movado was once a horological force to be reckoned with — in the mid-20th century, it created some of the most beautiful chronographs in all of Swiss watch-dom. However, it also produced unusual pieces such as this, a 35mm white gold elliptical watch with a stunning green malachite dial and a woven white gold bracelet in a scale-like motif. Hand-wound and beautiful, it’s well sized for use by both men and women.
Chopard 'Seashell' Cocktail Watch ($5,770)
Chopard 'Seashell' Cocktail Watch - IN THE SHOP
Though it dates to the 1990s, this stupendous ‘Seashell’ cocktail watch from Chopard hits all the right 1970s notes: Its yellow gold bracelet features a seamlessly hammered top and an undulating, woven underside, while its simple golden dial is broken only by its ‘alpha’ handset and wordmark. The golden seashell-shaped bezel surrounding the dial, however? Just superb. They don’t make ‘em like this anymore!
Vacheron Constantin White Gold Diamond Bezel ($7,450)
Vacheron Constantin White Gold Diamond Bezel - IN THE SHOP
While it dates — like many watches in this list — to the 1970s, this svelte bracelet watch could just as easily have fit in at a Jazz Age cocktail party. Measuring 26mm at the watch head, its white gold housing boasts a diamond-studded bezel and a grained silver ‘Sigma’ dial with applied indices. A white gold woven bracelet in a mesh style adds comfort and classic looks to this ultrathin masterpiece, which is hand-wound via the caseback.
Patek Philippe Calatrava ($16,850)
Patek Philippe Calatrava - IN THE SHOP
The Reference 3919 is well known to collectors for establishing the “Calatrava” moniker in the 1980s. This particular ‘90s iteration ups the ante on the model’s famous ‘hobnail’ bezel by extending the Clous de Paris motif to a magnificent, integrated yellow gold bracelet. With its tiny pyramidal shapes contained within larger squares, it makes for an usual design that’s at once eye catching and sophisticated.
Piaget 'Lapis Lazuli' White Gold Dress Watch ($13,950)
Piaget 'Lapis Lazuli' White Gold Dress Watch - IN THE SHOP
What sets Piaget’s midcentury output apart is its combination of beautiful precious-metal bracelets with eye-popping stone dials. A case in point is this example with a lapis lazuli dial and matching octagonal bezel: With counterpoint provided in the form of white gold alpha hands and a white gold woven mesh bracelet in a rope motif, it positively pops off the wrist in a proud display of different metiers d’art.
