The watches that stand the test of time aren’t simply those of great design and attractive appearance — rather, they’re typically accompanied by a story that captivates collectors and makes owners enthusiastic about wearing the watch each day. A prime example of this phenomenon is the Rolex GMT-Master: Designed to help air crews keep track of reference time across multiple time zones, the GMT-Master, in addition to providing a needed complication to address a practical issue, reflected the excitement of the world surrounding new opportunities to explore and travel utilizing international flight.
Today, we’ll be highlighting the milestone references in the celebrated GMT-Master and GMT-Master II model families. Follow along for a trip that celebrates horological and aeronautical history!
Rolex GMT-Master Q&A:
What is the Rolex GMT-Master?
The Rolex GMT-Master is an automatic wristwatch that allows the user to track a second time zone via the use of a fourth “GMT” hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. The newer GMT-Master II can track three time zones.
How does the Rolex GMT-Master track a second time zone?
Rolex GMT-Master II 'Sea King'
On the Rolex GMT-Master, a fourth “GMT” hand is slaved to the standard hour hand on a 12-hour offset. By adjusting the 24-hour bezel, one can thus calculate the time in a second time zone. For example:
Let’s say your GMT-Master reads 10 o’clock on its dial — the GMT hand would thus read 22:00, corresponding to a 12-hour offset from 10 AM. If you’re located in Los Angeles and you want to track the time in New York City, which is three hours ahead of Pacific time, you would rotate the bezel such that the GMT hand corresponds with 13:00, or three “clicks” to the left. Thus, 10 AM on the watch dial would correspond with 1 PM in New York.
On a GMT-Master II, the local hour hand is independently adjustable. This means that one can calculate one time zone using the regular 12-hour hand; a second using the independently adjustable 24-hour hand; and a third using an offset from the 24-hour bezel against the 12-hour dial. For example:
Let’s say you live in Los Angeles, but you’re traveling in New York — and you also want to know the time in Tel Aviv. Here’s one way you could do this if it was currently 6 PM in L.A: You might set the GMT hand to correspond with 1800 on the bezel, which is your “home time,” or “reference time” in Los Angeles. (It’s important to note that this hand only makes one revolution per day, as it’s set to 24-hour time.)
Then, you would set the local 12-hour hand (which is independently adjustable) to correspond with 9 PM, which is the time in New York if it’s 6 PM in Los Angeles. As you set the local hour hand, you would also set the date, which is adjusted by jumping the local hour hand around the dial. Now, you would rotate the bezel against a pre-known offset from the reference hand, or GMT hand: If Tel Aviv is currently (depending upon Daylight Savings Time) 10 hours ahead of Los Angeles, you would thus rotate the bezel 10 “clicks” to the left of the GMT hand.
Thus: The GMT hand (fourth hand) would read 1800 against the bezel; the local hour hand (i.e. the regular 12-hour hand) would read 9 (PM, keep in mind); and the bezel would read 0400 where it lines up with the GMT hand. Los Angeles; New York; Tel Aviv.
Who Wears a Rolex GMT-Master?
Rolex GMT-Master 'Pepsi'
The GMT-Master was designed specifically for Pan Am air crews in the 1950s, but makes for an excellent travel watch by virtue of its ability to track multiple time zones. Anyone who travels frequently or needs to track a different time zone — whether for work, to keep tabs on a loved one, etc. — can benefit from this model.
How many different GMT-Master models exist?
Rolex GMT-Master
Many! The GMT-Master and GMT-Master II have been in continuous production since the mid-1950s. There are numerous stainless steel models available, as well as models in gold and two-tone steel and gold. TL;DR — there’s a GMT-Master for every type of wrist.
What is a Rolex ‘Pepsi?’
‘Pepsi’ is a nickname for a GMT-Master or GMT-Master II that features a bi-color blue and red bezel. (‘Coke’ is a GMT-Master II with a red and black bezel.) The bi-color bezel is one of the defining features of the GMT-Master, and has become almost a trope in the watch industry to the context that any red-and-blue bezel is often referred to as a ‘Pepsi.’
What does a Rolex GMT-Master cost?
Prices are constantly in flux, but expect to pay ~$14,000 at the lower end to over ~$100,000 for certain ultra-rare references/models with special or highly desirable features. (As a general rule of thumb, ‘Pepsi’ watches are highly desirable, and solid-gold models will also carry a premium.)
Notable GMT-Master References
Reference 6542 (1955-1959)
With the newfound mastery of flight carrying pilots and passengers across time zones, Pan American Airlines approached Rolex to develop a watch capable of tracking two time zones simultaneously: The first zone was read via the standard 12-hour hand, while the other was read via a 24-hour hand that was slaved to the 12-hour hand. Using the rotatable 24-hour GMT bezel, the user could then calculate an “offset” against the GMT hand and track a second time zone. (At the time, Greenwich Mean Time was the reference used in commercial aviation; being able to keep track of both GMT time as well as local time was thus essential.)
The Reference 6542 was conceived as a result of this partnership with Pan Am, combining a 38mm case with a GMT function and rotating bezel. Prior to the GMT's development, Louis Cottier, an all-but-overlooked figure in the watch industry, had created the world time complication in partnership with a number of companies — most notably Patek Philippe. These travel time watches became a new segment of the market, constituting the timepieces of worldly travelers and adventurers in the new age of exploration.
The 6542 showcased many of the foundational attributes of the Rolex brand at the time, including an Oyster case, a Cyclops date magnifier, and a Mercedes handset. Undoubtedly the defining feature of this first generation model was its Bakelite bezel. The Bakelite bezel has since been the source of much intrigue, having been prone to both extreme cracking and radioactivity that raised safety concerns for collectors. Rolex mostly replaced the Bakelite bezels with anodized metal bezels without luminescent material, making original Reference 6542 examples with their original Bakelite bezels rare and valuable. Additionally, the bezels alone have been known to bring staggering prices as collectors seek original components for their vintage pieces. The ever-shrinking stock of original parts in quality condition has caused prices to skyrocket.
Specs:
Diameter: 38mm
Depth Rating: 50m
Movement: Calibre 1036; 1065; 1066
Reference 1675 (1959-1980)
The Reference 1675 saw many changes during its long tenure, with Rolex transitioning from gilt dials to matte dials beginning in 1966-67. The 1675 added crown guards to the previously guard-less Reference 6542, which increased the durability and heft of the design. (These crown guards were pointed in shape until roughly 1964, when they were changed to a rounded design). In the early ‘70s, Rolex introduced an all-black variant with a black bezel rather than the classic bi-color design that has since become iconic. In 1971, hacking seconds were added to the movement for more precise time setting. The Reference 1675 was also the first GMT reference to feature the words “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified” on its dial.
Having spanned so many years, the 1675 went through many phases of movement refinement and was also offered in two-tone metals and with various straps, including leather bands, Oyster bracelets, and Jubilee bracelets. This variety affords a wealth of options for different types of collectors.
A defining detail of some 1675 examples is the “exclamation dial”: Early GMTs used radium luminous paint; with time, concerns were raised regarding dangerous levels of radiation. Supposedly, to signify the brand’s transition towards reduced radium levels, Rolex placed a small dot below the 6 o’clock index, effectively making an exclamation point. In some cases, the exclamation dial accompanied early tritium lume as well. Dials began to be marked with a “T” for tritium starting roughly in 1964, although tritium was mixed with radium for several years prior. Regardless, the exclamation dial remains a desirable feature of many early Rolex models (particularly the GMTs, Submariners, and Explorers).
Specs:
Diameter: 39mm
Depth Rating: 50m
Movement: Calibre 1565; 1575
Reference 1675/3 (1970-1980)
The first of Rolex’s famed “Root Beer” GMT-Masters, the Reference 1675/3 has a special, brown-hued dial and matching bezel that helps to pull the gold tones from the bezel and text. This reference has no quickset date function, and was later replaced by the Reference 16753, which incorporated an updated movement with the quickset date.
Specs:
Diameter: 39mm
Depth Rating: 50m
Movement: Calibre 1565; 1575
Reference 16750 (1980-1988)
In 1980, Rolex launched the Reference 16750, which constituted the biggest update the GMT had received in quite some time. Introduced with the updated quick-set Calibre 3075, the 16750 also doubled the depth rating of the GMT line from 50 meters to 100 meters.
Within the short life of the transitional 16750, the GMT shifted once more from matte dials to glossy lacquered dials with white gold surrounds that have a tendency to “spider,” or form hairline cracks in their surfaces. This provides yet another source of collector enthusiasm — it seems that Rolex collectors value the defects that in most other brands would render a watch worthless!
Specs:
Diameter: 39mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3075
Reference 1675/8 (1980-1988)
Continuing along the progression of precious-metal GMTs, we arrive at the Reference 1675/8, a full-gold piece that predated the quickset date of the later 16758. At the start of production of the 1675/8, the piece was offered only with a brown dial, although later on, a black dial joined the mix.
From 1980 till 1988, the 1675/8 was all but replaced by the 16758 which now featured an updated movement with quickset date alongside other stylistic refinements such as a sapphire crystal.
This particular reference is a great representation of yet another desirable Rolex design feature, the so-called “nipple dial.” Characterized by its protruding, conical lume-filled gold markers, the nipple dial is a hallmark of many earlier (and neo-vintage) Rolex creations and is highly sought after today. (The name probably helps — although many will deny it.)
Reference 16758 (Circa 1980's)
The 16758 marked another step along the progression within Rolex towards a higher-end positioning within the luxury sector of the watch industry. When analyzing collections such as the GMT-Master that have existed since the mid-20th century, we often see this shift manifest itself in the form of full-gold variants. (Take the Submariner, for example, which saw the addition of full-gold models during the same period). Nonetheless, the 16758 maintains the DNA of the classic sports watch, albeit with a flashier and more ostentatious (and sexy!) yellow gold case and bracelet.
Specs:
Diameter: 39mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3075
Reference 16700 (1988-1999)
The final GMT-Master reference made by Rolex, the 16700 was produced alongside the GMT-Master II, which all but replaced the GMT line by the end of the 20th century. The 16700 used the Calibre 3175, which maintained a slaved GMT hand before replacement in the GMT-Master II line with a movement that allowed for independent operation of the local 12-hour hand. (This ability to adjust the local hour hand separately allows for the tracking of a third time zone.) In 1997, the Reference 16700 shifted from tritium lume to LumiNova.
Specs:
Diameter: 39mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3175
Reference 16760 (1982-1988) The First GMT-Master II, a.k.a. “The Fat Lady”
With the arrival of the GMT-Master II in 1982, a variety of foundational changes were brought to the GMT: For the first time, a sapphire crystal came standard, marking a significant change in Rolex watches as the brand slid into the neo-vintage era. As mentioned previously, the GMT Master IIs featured more complicated movements, and these necessitated a slightly thicker case than those of earlier GMT models. The thicker case, more robust crown guards, and wider bezel helped to justify the 16760’s affectionate nickname “Fat Lady.” (Some call this model the “Sophia Lauren” — an appreciably more affectionate moniker, though perhaps no less politically correct.)
With the Reference 16760, we also see the introduction of the bi-color red-and-black ‘Coke’ GMT bezel, a favorite among the vintage collecting community. At this point, all bezel inserts were made from aluminum, whereas the most recent references now use ceramic. While ceramic is certainly a more durable material, part of the beauty of the aluminum option is that its colors fade with time — a phenomenon that doesn’t occur in the more performance-oriented, modern materials.
Specs:
Diameter: 39mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3085
Reference 16710 (1989-2007)
Following the 16760 Rolex introduced the 16710, which, apart from an updated movement that facilitated a slimmer profile and wrist presence, was all but the same as the previous iteration. In 2000, the end links of the GMT-Master II were made solid, and by 2003, the ‘holey’ lugs were replaced by solid lugs. These refinements further solidified the transition into the modern era, which arguably began with the introduction of the sapphire crystal on the 16760.
Specs:
Diameter: 39mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3185
Reference 116710 (2007-2019)
The largest update to the GMT-Master II since its introduction in 2005, the Ref. 116710 debuted in a special, all-gold anniversary edition followed by a regular-production steel model beginning in 2007 (the Reference 116710LN). This new watch features a beefier “Super Case,” providing more continuity across sport collections. Additionally, with the 2007 update we find the collection’s first ceramic bezel; it was initially offered in black, and subsequently in blue and black (known affectionately as the ‘Batman’) as well as the classic blue and red combo (‘Pepsi’) in 2013 and 2014, respectively.
The ‘Pepsi’ GMT Master II marked an important milestone for Rolex” Up until 2014, the GMT-Master II had not yet received the classic ‘Pepsi’ color combo of old. While many collectors got behind the concept of a ceramic bezel, they had been left wanting in respect to this original colorway. Since the release of the “Super Case”-era ‘Pepsi’ GMT, we have seen an explosion of the popularity of the model line, and a subsequent surge in trading values on the secondary market. The GMT-Master II has since undergone yet another update — this time to the movement — but the rest of the model remains mostly unchanged.
Specs:
Diameter: 40mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3186
Reference 126710BLNR (2018-Present)
In 2018, Rolex introduced the current-spec GMT-Master II, the Reference 126710 in Oystersteel with a Jubilee bracelet. Powered by the Calibre 3285 with Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers, it was initially available in a ‘Pepsi’ configuration, which was subsequently joined by a ‘Batman’ configuration. For a time, the stainless steel Reference 126710 with bi-color bezels was only available on an Oyster bracelet; as of now, ‘Pepsi,’ ‘Batman,’ and 2022’s green-black version are each available on both Jubilee and Oyster bracelets.
Meanwhile, as concerns precious metals: Yellow Rolesor (two-tone with yellow gold and steel) is available on a matching Jubilee; Everose Rolesor (two-tone with rose gold and steel) is available on a matching Oyster; yellow gold on a matching Jubilee; white gold on a matching Oyster; and Everose gold on a matching Oyster.
Specs:
Diameter: 40mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3285
Reference 126720VTNR (2022-Present): Out of Left Field
2022 saw the introduction of one of the most interesting GMT-Master (II) watches of them all: the “southpaw” (our moniker, not Rolex’s) Reference 126720VTNR — a left-handed iteration with a bi-color, green and black bezel. The crown and date window are reversed on this watch, making it ideal for those who wear a timepiece on their right hand. (Though Rolex doesn’t call the watch a “left-handed” model or anything of the like; rather, the Crown celebrates the variety and choice available to clients who might prefer a watch configured in this manner.
Specs:
Diameter: 40mm
Depth Rating: 100m
Movement: Calibre 3285
The Appeal of the GMT-Master
Rolex Movement Calibre 3285 - (Image by Wrist Advisor)
The GMT-Master is one of Rolex’s most beloved collections. An iconic sports watch with a story intertwined with early flight and exploration, it’s a distinctly romantic timepiece, nostalgic to those who consider its small but important role in history. Because while multiple time zones are available at a glance on our phones, there’s a certain je ne sais quoi inherent in a small, wrist-worn object that tracks this information mechanically. Clearly this has been born out over the past seven decades!
As Rolex continues the story of the GMT-Master, there’s no doubt that this important model family will only continue to grow in stature and popularity. No matter which GMT-Master reference you choose, you can rest assured that you’re buying into one of the most important models in modern horology.
