While most tool watches were historically made with stark black dials and luminous printing, these can often feel somewhat staid in the sun’s bright summer rays. The solution, then? Try a white-dialed watch.
While less common than their black-dial compatriots, white-dialed tool watches exist as divers, chronographs, and more. The dress watch category, meanwhile, is where they truly shine — especially when paired with simple, monochromatic straps in virtually any color. When the mercury rises, nothing looks better than one of these white-dialed beauties as it artfully reflects the sun’s rays back into the ether or glistens under water.
For the sake of this guide, we’re going to include both white and silver dials, which give a similar effect during summertime wear. Throw one on, step out into the fresh air, and take a swan dive into summer. We guarantee that with a white-dialed watch on your wrist, you’ll feel relaxed and refreshed before you even hit the water.
Accutron Legacy 'Railroad' ($789)
Accutron Legacy 'Railroad' - IN THE SHOP
Recalling the R.R.-O model from 1970, the Accutron Legacy ‘Railroad’ pairs vintage Accutron design cues with modern touches for an excellent unisex timepiece. Its 34mm steel case makes it a wonderful candidate for everyday wear, while its bright white dial with 24-hour scale is ideal for casual summertime fun. Flip it over and an automatic movement is on view beneath a sapphire crystal. You also have your choice of one of three premium Accutron leather straps.
Tudor Black Bay 41 ($2,850)
Tudor Black Bay 41 - IN THE SHOP
Need a summer watch you can beat the heck out of without worry? What about one that’ll look great no matter if you’re poolside or out to a nice dinner? Try Tudor’s Black Bay 41 on for size. With its handsome silver dial and matching, stainless steel multi-link bracelet, it’s got good looks for days, while its automatic Calibre T600 movement provides nearly a weekend’s worth of power reserve. With a watch like this, you might not need anything else in your collection!
Leonidas Two-Register Chronograph ($2,900)
Leonidas Two-Register Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
There’s nothing quite as satisfying as turning the crown on a simple, hand-wound chronograph from the mid-20th century. This handsome example, produced by Leonidas, measures an excellent 36mm in diameter and is powered by the Landeron Calibre 248 movement. With its silver dial, you could conceivably throw it on just about any strap and it’ll look excellent. (Wondering why the Heuer-signed crown? Leonidas was purchased by Heuer in the mid-60s.)
Cartier Pasha C ($3,400)
Cartier Pasha C - IN THE SHOP
Dating to the 2000s, this automatic version of the Cartier Pasha in stainless steel is really an elegant tool watch: The crown is protected by a dedicated device; the movement is wound by your wrist’s motion; the highly legible dial has a handy date window; and it’s paired to a steel bracelet. However, this being a Cartier, you also get good looks supposedly inspired by a one-off commission for the Pasha of Marrakech in the 1930s. Who could resist such a timepiece?
Tudor Black Bay Chronograph ($4,350)
Tudor Black Bay Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
If you’re gonna rock a chrono this summer, few are as appropriate as the Black Bay Chronograph. Housed in a 41mm steel case with a screw-down crown and pushers for increased water resistance, it features a stellar white ‘panda’ dial with a dual-register display, a date window at 6 o’clock, and a ‘snowflake’ handset — all of which is framed by a black tachymeter bezel with white printing. A paired black nylon strap will keep things light and airy.
Grand Seiko Divers 200m ($4,750)
Grand Seiko Divers 200m - IN THE SHOP
While G.S. might be best known for its elegant dress watches, this larger, quartz-powered diver is the perfect candidate for warmer weather. Measuring a hefty 42.7mm in stainless steel, its white dial is framed by a unidirectional dive bezel with a black insert, while a signed, screw-down crown and caseback provide a tight seal against the elements. Ticking away inside is the reliable Grand Seiko 9F61 quartz movement. Just add water, and you’re good to go!
Patek Philippe Ladies Dress Watch 'Calatrava Cross' ($8,900)
Patek Philippe Ladies Dress Watch 'Calatrava Cross' - IN THE SHOP
Where Patek Philippe is concerned, the devil is always in the details. Take this stunning ladies’ dress watch, for example: Look closely at the silver dial and you’ll notice a repeating Calatrava cross pattern that’s been engraved into the metal. As if this weren’t enough, the white gold case transitions seamlessly into an integrated white gold bracelet with a signed clasp. Powered by an ultra-thin, hand-wound movement, it’s ideal for outdoor summertime cocktail wear.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport ($10,650)
Zenith Chronomaster Sport - IN THE SHOP
Want a sporty chronograph that you don’t have to worry about banging around and that features a healthy amount of water resistance? Try the Zenith Chronomaster Sport on for size. Based around the maison’s El Primero Calibre 36000 hi-beat, automatic movement, its black ceramic timing bezel features a 1/10th seconds track, while its triple-register chronograph display in three silver-grey tones pops against the white dial. Add in the included, matching steel bracelet, and you’ve got yourself a recipe for summertime success.
Omega Speedmaster Professional Canopus Gold ($35,950)
Omega Speedmaster Professional Canopus Gold - IN THE SHOP
This Speedmaster Professional may look like the brand-new white-dial variation in steel — but it ain’t. Rather, it’s made of Canopus Gold, Omega’s white gold formulation that translates beautifully into both case and multi-link bracelet. Paired with a silver dial with a triple-register chronograph display, the Omega Calibre 3861 hand-wound movement, and a black tachymeter bezel insert, it’s primed and ready to time fuel burns…or hamburgers. Dealer’s choice, really.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day-Date Moonphase ($44,450)
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day-Date Moonphase - IN THE SHOP
Need a baller watch for your summertime vacation? Try this Royal Oak Day-Date Moonphase. With its little-seen combination of complications laid over a white tapisserie background, this 36mm beauty is perfect for strolling lazily about a port-side Mediterranean town or lounging by the pool. The Audemars Piguet Calibre 2825 automatic-winding movement contained within, meanwhile, gives you all the information you need at a quick glance — crucially, without email notifications.
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph ($59,350)
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph - IN THE SHOP
A flyback chronograph combined with an annual calendar, paired to a steel multi-link bracelet and powered by an in-house, automatic movement? Count us in. This Patek Philippe Reference 5960-1A from the 2010s manages to include a wealth of indications on its summery white dial without crowding — a tough task when dealing with the minute real estate available on a typical watch dial. Meanwhile, small pops of red and black offer pleasing (and useful) contrast.
