Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Military' Dial

Smaller watches are back with a vengeance. Well, actually… they never left!

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 14790ST is a compact iteration of their signature sports watch featuring a tidy 36mm case with its distinguishable octagonal silhouette, exposed bezel screws and characteristic integrated steel bracelet. This particular execution also happens to feature a ‘Military’ dial, which made its appearance in the 1990s, giving the entire package a stark and utilitarian feel.

The case features a brushed finish with polished facets and screws, as well as a signed screw-down crown, a flat crystal and a tapered multi-link integrated steel bracelet with a signed deployant clasp — all pretty standard kit for a Royal Oak.

The dial however, is not standard. The gloss black affair features a set of printed blocky ‘Arabic’ marker indices, a ‘sword’ handset and an arrow-tipped center seconds hand giving what typically is a luxurious looking timepiece a decidedly rugged aesthetic that has earned the nickname 'Military'. 

Packed with the Audemars Piguet Calibre 2225 self-winding movement equipped with 36 jewels and 40 hours of power reserve, this piece is a killer everyday stainless steel sports watch from the Big Three that happens to be a bit left-of-center from most Royal Oaks.

Grail-worthy? We say yes!

There are certain watches that define a brand, informing its design ethos and becoming nothing short of iconic in the minds of collectors. For Audemars Piguet, that watch is the Royal Oak, in all its multitudinous incarnations. Yet the manufacture from Le Brassus did not earn its seat in the triumvirate of leading watch brands — the so-called Big Three — on the success of the Royal Oak alone.

In fact, both Jules Audemars and Edward Piguet came from long lines of watchmakers, and made their reputations long before the Royal Oak was conceived. Their reputations rested on their ability to create incredibly elegant timepieces in numerous styles. While some of these timepieces were simple, elegant dress watches, others were one-off or short-series pieces produced at the rate of a handful per year. (Some years, Audemars Piguet only produced a few hundred watches in total.) Calendar watches, chronographs, minute repeaters — all the delights of haute horlogerie were part and parcel of the AP oeuvre long before the Royal Oak made its debut in 1972.

Technical innovations from AP abound and include the first minute-repeating movement, the first skeleton watch and an ultra-thin automatic tourbillon. Newer collections, such as the Code 11.59 from 2019, see the maison continue to develop new and exciting watches and calibers, the likes of which aren’t based upon tired horological tropes from models past. (Though if vintage reissues are your bag, AP does have a special “Remaster” line — currently consisting of just one model — that reimagines some of its classical, complicated pieces from the mid-20th century.)

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Condition

Since our pieces are vintage or pre-owned, please expect wear & patina from usage and age. Please read each item description and examine all product images.

Warranty

We back each Analog:Shift vintage timepiece with a one-year mechanical warranty from the date of purchase.

International Buyers

Please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.

All of our watches include complementary insured shipping within the 50 states.

Most of our products are on hand and will ship directly from our headquarters in New York City. In some cases, watches will be shipped directly from one of our authorized partners.

We generally ship our products via FedEx, fully insured, within 5 business days of purchase. An adult signature is required for receipt of all packages for insurance purposes. Expedited shipping is available at an additional cost. We are also happy to hand deliver your purchase in Manhattan or you may pick it up at our showroom.

Returns must be sent overnight or by priority international delivery, fully insured and paid for by the customer. A restocking fee may apply. Watches must be returned in the same condition as initially shipped.

We welcome international buyers, please contact us prior to purchase for additional details on shipping and payment options.