Once upon a time, prominent jewelers had enough cachet to sell watches from famed brands that were double-stamped with their own name. (Certain companies, such as Tiffany & Co, still do.) While this practice largely faded away as the 20th century came to a close, the vintage and pre-owned market is still an excellent place to track down these unique pieces of history. While some of the jewelers in question still exist, perhaps the most fascinating double-signed timepieces are those from retailers who have long since ceased operations, or whose businesses have changed entirely.
A newspaper announcement of the opening of Emilio Joani Gondolo ́s first storefront in Rio d Janeiro - (Image by Collectability)
Gondolo & Labouriau, for example, was at one time Patek Philippe’s most important retail partner: Between the years 1872 until 1927, this Rio de Janeiro-based business sold countless pocket watches and clocks from the famed Swiss maison, many of which were its special Chronometro Gondolo models. (In fact, the company had a unique club for owners of such watches.) Alas, the 1929 Wall Street crash — as well as questionable business practices — changed all that, and by 1935, Gondolo & Labouriau was no more.
Hamilton Khaki Field 'L.L. Bean'
In the United States, Abercrombie & Fitch — long before it became a mall brand slinging expensive t-shirts to teenagers — was one of the finest retailers of outdoor equipment in the world. Heuer Seafarers (and other models) carrying the Abercrombie & Fitch signature are prized for this unique connection and history as well as for their relative rarity. But not all double-signed watches command outsized prices: Hamilton field watches sold through the likes of L.L. Bean, Orvis, and Brookstone can be had for a few-thousand dollars or less.
Ultimately, a double-signed watch or clock is a portal through which one can explore the history of more than just a particular timepiece, but also a business relationship and even an entire market. (Indeed, Gondolo & Labouriau was once responsible for an incredible third of all Patek Philippe’s sales, with “Patek” signifying “watch” or “clock” in Portuguese regardless of make.) For collectors, the presence of a retailer signature on a fine timepiece’s dial is an automatic value-add — if not necessarily in dollars and cents, then certainly in interest and collectability. (And, to be fair, often in strictly economic terms as well!)
Movado Dress Watch for Tiffany & Co. ($2,250)
Movado Dress Watch for Tiffany & Co. - IN THE SHOP
Looking for a simple yellow gold dress or everyday watch for your collection? This handsome, hand-wound 33.5mm piece features both the Movado logo and the “Tiffany & Co.” stamp, dating it to a time when the American retailer’s signature featured on watches from a variety of brands. With its beautifully aged satin silver dial and applied indices, it brings “Calatrava” vibes for a fraction of the price of such a watch.
Heuer Monte Carlo Dash Timer for Abercrombie & Fitch ($4,000)
Heuer Monte Carlo Dash Timer for Abercrombie & Fitch - IN THE SHOP
There are few horological objects as compelling to the tool watch aficionado as a well-loved dashboard timer. This example, produced by Heuer and retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch, is a Monte Carlo with both a rotating timing bezel and an inner decimal scale. Mounted to a steel plaque and shipping with its correct box and instructions, it’ll look just as fetching on a desk as it will mounted to the dash of a “motor car, power boat, or airplane.”
Patek Philippe Square Dress Watch 'Serpico Y Laino' ($14,850)
Patek Philippe Square Dress Watch 'Serpico y Laino' - IN THE SHOP
Between its establishment in 1925 until its closure in 1966, Serpico Y Laino was the premier jeweler in Caracas and a licensed agent of both Patek Philippe and Rolex watches. This yellow gold dress watch Ref. 2496 from the 1950s is made the more special for its square case shape, which was largely out of favor by the time it was born: With its ‘hobnail’ bezel, angular lugs, and simple dial, it’s a beautiful encapsulation of midcentury elegance.
Universal Genève Dress Watch For J.E. Caldwell & Co. ($2,350)
Universal Genève Dress Watch for J.E. Cadwell & Co. - IN THE SHOP
Looking to dip your toe in the double-signed waters without breaking the bank? Try this interesting watch on for size: Produced by Universal Genève in the mode of its famed Polerouter, its silvered dial is signed “J.E. Caldwell & Co,” once one of Philadelhpia’s most renowned jewelers, established in 1839. Dating to the 1950s, it’s powered by a bumper automatic movement and features an easy-wearing 33.5mm case.
Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer 'MKII' ($19,950)
Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer 'MKII' - IN THE SHOP
One of the most beloved of double-signed watches — actually, it’s not even signed ‘Heuer’ on the dial, but we know who made it! — is the Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer. This version, housed in Heuer’s 2443 case, features an incredible patina to its once-silver dial. However, the blue regatta timer and blue and tan tide indicators are still vibrant and evocative as ever, and the watch still reminds one of summer days spent on the water with friends.
Heuer Pre-Carrera Chronograph Türler ($6,250)
Heuer Pre-Carrera Chronograph Türler - IN THE SHOP
You’ll forgive our gushing, but we think this ‘pre-Carrera’ has to be one of the best-looking chronographs we’ve come across in recent memory. Measuring a wrist-perfect 37mm in stainless steel, its silvered dial is signed “Türler,” a once-famed Swiss retailer whose wordmark features on vintage watches from numerous brands. The beautiful, restrained design and wonderfully aged patina make this hand-wound piece sublime.
Patek Philippe Ellipse 'Tiffany & Co.' ($17,150)
Patek Philippe Ellipse 'Tiffany & Co.' - IN THE SHOP
Finally, what would a discussion of double-signed watches be without a Tiffany-retailed Patek Philippe? This handsome, ovular Ellipse from the 1970s, with its yellow gold case, unique lugs, and ‘Roman’ dial, is a picture of late-20th century beauty. Powered by the Calibre 215 manually wound movement, it’s everything you need in a dress watch, and nothing you don’t. (Did we mention it was serviced by Patek itself back in 2023?)
