Unless you’ve been living under a horological rock, you’ve no doubt encountered the Patek Philippe Calatrava — perhaps the quintessential dress watch.
Nearly a century ago, this timepiece wrote the rule book for what a dressy wristwatch should look like. Its elegant proportions, handsome dial, and refined character quickly stood out in a sea of similar yet less sophisticated fare.
In the words of John Reardon — collector, expert, and owner of Collectability, a resource for all things Patek — "Perhaps no watch is more recognizable in Patek Philippe's historical offering than the classic Calatrava. It is such an iconic look that the Calatrava is the visual definition of what a wristwatch should look like."
Today, we’re going to explore this model’s evolution as well as discuss some of its milestone references and how each fits within the larger story of Patek Philippe. Let's begin where it all started — with the monumental Reference 96.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 96
David Penney’s drawing of a Ref. 96 with a hobnail bezel. (Image Collectibility)
Patek Philippe released the Reference 96 in 1932, the same year that the Stern family — which operated a dial manufacture — took ownership of Patek Philippe. While many of the high-end brands were still reluctant to fully endorse wristwatches as anything more than a fad, the Great Depression put economic pressure on the company to deliver a simpler, more affordable product than the complicated pocket watches for which it was known.
As the wristwatch slowly gained traction following the First World War, cultural pressures pushed maisons like Patek to consider changing the paradigm of the old-guard pocket watch industry and to appeal to a new audience. The Reference 96 (the first serially-produced Patek wristwatch to receive a formal, tracked reference number) was considered extremely modern for the time — a flat, plain bezel reflected the fundamental influence of the Bauhaus, a design movement founded by Walter Gropius in 1919.
A first-series, unrestored steel ref. 96 dating to 1934. (Image by Collectability)
Minimalism, elegance, simplicity— these are the overused (but certainly appropriate) terms that attempt to capture the look of the Reference 96. To the layman, this reference merely presents as a rather innocuous, round wristwatch. What this perspective fails to acknowledge, however, is that the 96 became the innocuous, round wristwatch — and we mean this as a distinct compliment! It’s the dress watch that sparked a small revolution not only for Patek, but for haute horlogerie more generally.
By embracing wristwatches, a respected marque like Patek was putting its stamp of approval on an entire stylistic sea change that was occurring within the industry at the time. The pocket watch era was, after several centuries, finally coming to a close, and the Reference 96 represented the new, wrist-worn frontier. Was it the first wristwatch? No. Was it the first round wristwatch? Again, no. But it was a Patek. And it was one of the earliest Patek creations to personify the now-common dress watch characteristics we have come to know and love.
A Ref. 96R with black dial from 1941. (Image by Collectability)
The first thing to notice about the Reference 96 is its dial. Though it was executed in myriad forms over the years — with wedge-shaped markers, ‘Breguet’ indices, sub-seconds or central seconds — the operative term is “simplicity.” Even rarer ‘scientific’ dials exhibit a degree of restraint that renders their more involved designs elegant and tasteful. Regardless of execution, a Reference 96 dial is beloved for its simple beauty — an aesthetic that continues to inform modern Patek Philippe production.
The case of the 96 was also quite impactful: Featuring flowing case lines with sheer sides, it was different from many contemporary models that were clearly adopted from pocket watches, with lugs that were distinct from the midcase. The midcase on the 96 flows straight through to the lug, making for a seamless look that many brands have since adopted.
As we examine the expansion of the Calatrava model family over the years, it’s possible to trace each reference back to the famous 96. Almost all Calatravas share a Bauhaus influence, extreme simplicity, and an unmistakable elegance that isn’t just a cliche used for sales purposes — rather, it’s a fitting description for a timeless piece of design. (The term "Calatrava," however, came about as a result of marketing efforts in the 1980s — see the section on the Ref. 3919, below — and wasn't used before then.)
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 570
The Ref. 570G is essentially an upsized Ref. 96 - IN THE SHOP
Launched in 1938, the Reference 570 is largely an upscaled 96. Measuring 35.5mm in diameter, it maintains the case characteristics of the 96 in the form of a flowing midcase that extends from the lugs through the center of the watch. Sheer sides in combination with rather thin, sculpted lugs and a flat bezel profile make for a decidedly simple, handsome shape, while offerings in yellow, pink, and white gold as well as two-tone gold, platinum and steel meant a varied smorgasbord of available executions.
The 570 came in both central and subsidiary-seconds versions, the former powered by the Calibre 12-120 SC and Calibre 27SC, and the latter by the Calibre 12-200 and Calibre 12-400. Interesting dial variations, which include 'sector' dials; applied 'baton' indices; applied 'Breguet' indices with matching hands; and others, command enormous values at auction. In production through 1972, the 570 is beloved by Patek collectors everywhere, and for good reason: Its larger take on the simple Bauhaus aesthetic is indicative of the maison adapting excellent design principles to fit more modern tastes, something it continues to do well into the 21st century.
Today, the 570 remains a popular favorite in the pantheon of vintage Patek Calatravas. Its versatile case sizing makes it equally at home on 21st century wrists as it was when first presented. Collectors have always favored previously 'oversized' watches that work wonderfully in a modern context. The same philosophy has made the 5070 one of the most desirable chronographs in Patek history, launched at a substantial 42mm in 1998.
Regardless, the 570 lives on in Patek legend as one of the classics of the last century.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 3919
The 'hobnail' bezel Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.3919J made it an icon of 1980s watchmaking - IN THE SHOP
For the purposes of understanding the broad stylistic differences between the Calatravas, it’s important to examine the Reference 3919, which debuted in 1985.
In the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, Patek Philippe enlisted the help of a prominent Geneva-based ad man, René Bittel, to help revive its then-flagging business. Bittel, as the story goes, suggested that Patek identify its most recognizable features and incorporate them into a single emblematic piece. Philippe Stern, then President of Patek Philippe, asked what Bittel pictured as the iconic Patek look, and Bittel described would later become the 3919.
The 3919 shares the 96’s simple design, but there were quite a few stylistic differences between the watches. First, unlike the 96, which had the monoblock case, the 3919 featured the soldered lugs mentioned earlier. But the key design choice Bittel made was to replace the plain coin-edge bezel with a ‘hobnail’ version. The hobnail, which features an engraved, engine-turned pattern, adds an element of flash and zip to the design. (The immediate design inspiration for the 3919’s bezel was an early Reference 96 dating to 1934, the Reference 96D. The 96D featured the hobnail pattern of the 3919, although not many were made.) Seemingly, Bittel felt that the hobnail pattern landed an eye-catching look without being overly flashy or loud. Walking this tight rope was what rendered the 3919 a timeless classic. Its sizing — 33mm, or 2mm larger than the Reference 96 — updated it for the 1980s wearer.
The 3919 quickly became the symbol of Patek that Bittel had advocated for. Indeed, in the 1980s and ‘90s, the 3919 became known as the “banker’s watch,” as befitting its successful and elegant wearers. In many respects, the 3919 transcended the limits of the immediate watch industry and began to permeate the broader culture of the world’s social elite, somewhat in the mold of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or Patek Philippe’s own Nautilus.
While the overarching design of the Reference 3919 wasn’t necessarily groundbreaking, its ‘hobnail’ bezel has rendered it a classic, and its aesthetics have seeped into the modern Patek catalog. If you’re on the hunt for a relatively accessible entry into the world of vintage Patek Philippe, you’d be hard pressed to find a more appropriate starting place than the 3919.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5196
The Patek Philipe Calatrava Ref.5196G, a modern take on the 96 with a larger 37mm case - IN THE SHOP
In 2004, Patek released its next classic Calatrava of note— the reference 5196. Functionally the modern outgrowth of the 96, the 5196 was sized at a contemporary 37mm case diameter, making it the bigger, modern brother of the original Calatrava. That said, the other defining details were all present: The 5196 had the same sheer case of the 96 as well as the simple dial with ‘dauphine’ hands, faceted indices, and subsidiary seconds. Sized appropriately for 1930s taste, the 31mm 96 became too small for the contemporary collector in the 21st century. The 5196 finally offered an alternative for the lover of Patek history and design who wanted something a bit more contemporary that still respected the 96’s design codes.
The 5196 is completed with beautiful appliqué dot markers for the minutes track — a detail found on certain of the 96 references that adds some warmth and helps fill the larger dial real estate. In spite of the larger sizing, we still see the Bauhaus touches emphasized on the 5196. Indeed, nothing extraneous was left on this piece: The construction is extremely simple, but the design works brilliantly as a result.
The 37mm sizing is perhaps the perfect balance to strike on a modern piece meant for dress wear; while larger than something truly vintage, it doesn’t come across as ill-considered, like a 42mm dinner-plate dress watch. (The 5196 does wear larger than its 37mm size might suggest due to its broad lug structure, however, so it’s likely a good idea to try one on prior to purchase.)
The snap-back caseback on the Ref.5196G. - IN THE SHOP
One detail that’s rarely discussed with respect to the 5196 is its closed caseback. This may seem like a small thing, but keep in mind that this piece was introduced in 2004, at a time when many of Patek’s watches were already set with sapphire casebacks. A number of factors could have led to Patek’s choice: Perhaps it was because the closed caseback is more consistent with the look of the 96 as a traditional dress piece, or because its movement is relatively straightforward. Another factor to consider however, is that the 5196 is a common gift surrounding a special occasion. A wedding, birthday, anniversary, or other life milestone is often celebrated with a Calatrava, and thus an engravable back is appealing to this type of buyer.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 5119
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5119-001 is a larger take on the Ref.3919 - IN THE SHOP
In 2006, Patek Philippe continued the expansion of the Calatrava collection and released the 5119. Much about it should look familiar: The hobnail bezel, soldered-looking ‘wire’ lugs, black printed Roman-numeral indices, and subsidiary seconds all remind one of the 3919, of which the 5119 is largely just a scaled-up version. Sized at 36mm instead of the 33mm of the 3919, it was designed to extend the styling of that successful and industry-defining reference to the modern era, similarly to the way in which the 5196 is a scaled-up take on the 96.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.5119R-001 open caseback - IN THE SHOP
Interestingly, the 5119 was given an exhibition caseback. In spite of this, Patek maintained the same caliber as that of the 3919, leaving the 5119 with a spacer to help fill the larger caseback. (This gives a somewhat mismatched look — would it not have been better to fit an exhibition back to the 3919 with its appropriately-sized movement, and leave a solid caseback on the 5119? Or fit it with a larger movement?) Nonetheless, the 5119 is a beautiful watch, and has been quite popular since its introduction. Many who love the 3919 but simply can’t stomach the 33mm sizing opt for this reference instead.
Looking more closely at the 5119’s aesthetics, the numerals on the larger 5119 were elongated to help fill the dial space, whereas the numerals of the 3919 had a much more squat presence. The lugs of the 5119 are likewise a bit more substantial to counterbalance a moderately larger bezel. These changes may seem insubstantial, but they actually greatly affect the way the watch presents on the wrist and in hand. (If you’re debating between the two references, it’s a great idea to handle both the 3919 and 5119 in person before making a purchasing decision. The two are incredibly similar and yet have entirely different identities. As with all things Patek, the details are incredibly important.)
Patek Philippe Calatrava Reference 6119
The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6119G-001, a logical melding of several Calatrava watches in a single reference - IN THE SHOP
The Patek reference 6119 is a case study in the way that Patek goes about designing “new” references. Indeed, having reviewed the previous pieces we’ve covered, from the 96 through the 5119, nothing should surprise you about the look of the 6119. In many respects, this reference is the confluence of a number of details from various historical references.
Patek developed a completely new, manually-wound calibre for the Ref. 6119
On the one hand, the 6119 has the case and lugs of the 96 or the 5196. At the same time, it features the bezel of the 3919 and 5119. So how ‘new’ is the 6119? Well, Patek developed a brand-new, manually-wound caliber specifically for this watch, featuring an updated power reserve of 65 hours, twin barrels for consistent amplitude throughout the reserve, and a reworked bridge layout. To date, this movement has only been used within the 6119. (It’s quite telling that Patek invested in developing a manually-wound movement in 2021. In an era when many brands are moving away from manually-wound movements altogether and replacing them with ultra-thin automatics, Patek is sticking to its guns. This is a bold statement about the future of traditional mechanical watchmaking.)
The case diameter grew substantially on the 6119, all the way to 39mm, where the 5196 measured 37mm and the 5119 clocked in at 36mm. The watch wears substantially larger than 39 — probably closer to 41mm as a result of the long lugs. The subsidiary seconds and the Patek logo on the 6119 are also larger than on the previous references. The larger subsidiary seconds actually impedes on the 6 o’clock index on the 6119, whereas the 5196, 5119, and 3919 have the subsidiary seconds set above the numeral entirely.
The Legacy of the Patek Calatrava
When Patek introduced the Reference 96 in 1932, it’s unlikely that the firm could have anticipated the impact that this monumental watch would have not only on its own business, but also on the aesthetic of dress watches as a category. The Calatrava has defined the look of a classy men’s dress watch — nearly every other brand’s dress watch is an indirect play on the design language of the Calatrava. Owning a Calatrava is a way of tapping into that legacy, and it’s one of the reasons that even time-only vintage Patek Calatravas have maintained collectability nearly a century following their conception.
No matter which reference you choose, you will note the consistent Bauhaus design ethos carried through to the present day. Part of what makes the study of the Calatrava so interesting is to witness the way in which Patek goes about its design process. With all excess decoration stripped away, the Calatrava’s evolution is the purest form of Patek’s aesthetic and gravitas. In a way, you could say that the Calatrava is the quintessential Patek Philippe.
